APE CAVE:
A Bucket-List Hike Through a Real Lava Tube
Ape Cave is a spectacular ancient lava tube that is absolutely fantastic to explore. It is the third longest lava tube in North America (at 2.5 miles) and it is easy enough for kids to hike it too!
WHERE IS APE CAVE?
Ape Cave is located in Washington State, just south of Mt. St. Helens.
Travel Tip: Although Ape Cave lies just south of Mt. St. Helens, it takes almost 2 hours and 30 minutes to drive to Ape Cave from Johnston Ridge Observatory due to the lack of roads in the area. (But to me, this drive is completely worth it!)
Directions: From Cougar WA take Lewis River Road east for 2.8 miles. The road then changes to Forest Road 90. Continue on Forest Road 90 to Forest Road 83, approximately 4 miles and turn left. Drive Forest Road 83 for 3 miles then turn left onto Forest Road 8303. Drive approximately 1.5 miles, past Trail of Two Forest, Apes’ Headquarters is located at Ape Cave on Forest Road 8303 on the left.
DOES APE CAVE NEED A RESERVATION?
Yes, timed reservations are required to visit Ape Cave during the open season: May 18 through October 31. Choose a two-hour time slot for your desired day on recreation.gov ($2 admin fee).
In 2022, you could purchase this starting April 15.
OTHER FEES TO VISIT APE CAVE
To visit, it is either $5/vehicle/day, or you can use a valid Recreation Pass or an America the Beautiful Pass. A fee tube is available for payment on-site.
See Mount St. Helens Map for fee and payment sites.
WHAT IS THE TEMPERATURE IN APE CAVE?
The Temperature is 42 degrees F/ 5.6 degrees C Year-Round.
Hiking Tip: This is much colder than the average cave temperature (which ranges from 50-70 degrees.) Avoid letting this catch you off guard like it did for us.
Definitely bring a jacket and even gloves to stay warm in Ape Cave.
CHOOSE WHICH TRAIL(S) TO HIKE IN APE CAVE
There are 2 Different Paths Through Ape Cave:
1. The Family-Friendly Trail:
- Hike 3/4 mile, one-way, down the lower cave path.
- It is 1.5 miles round trip.
- This trail is relatively flat for the entire walk down this spacious portion of the lava tube.
- Time Needed: 1 hour
2. The More Challenging Trail
- Hike 1.5 miles up the upper cave path, with about a 1.25 mile hike, above ground to return to the parking lot.
- This is approximately a 2.8 mile loop.
- On this trail you’ll climb up an 8 foot high rock wall and scramble over 20+ boulder piles with abrasive rocks. (Gloves for your hands may be helpful.)
- Time Needed: 2-2.5 hours
WHAT DO YOU NEED FOR YOUR HIKE?
- 2 Sources of Light for Each Person
- A good Head Lamp and Flashlight worked perfect for us.
- Sturdy Shoes
- Warm Clothes
IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOR APE CAVE
- Restrooms: There are 2 vault toilets
- Do Not Touch the Cave Walls or Ceilings
- Cave Slime covers the walls and if you touch it, it will take years for this fungus to regrow.
- No Food or Drinks (except water) in the Cave
- No Rock Collecting
HOW TO HIKE APE CAVE
From the parking lot, take the short paved path to the entrance, where you’ll find a stairwell that will take you down into the lava tube.
From here, you can chose which path you want to hike down the lava tube. Our family chose to hike just the Lower Cave Path. This was perfect for our family (with kids ages 7, 9 &11).
As you enter the Lower Cave, this is your first view.
Next, you’ll head down a second set of stairs. You’ll quickly notice that any light from the outside world disappears.
From here on, the rest of the hike is surprisingly spacious and pretty flat.
And let me tell you, walking through this lava tube feels completely unreal! To stand where lava once flowed is a fantastic experience!
Family Fun Idea:
When no one is hiking near you, have everyone stand still and turn off their lights. Standing in the pitch black darkness of this lava tube is an experience that your kids are sure to remember forever.
Ape Cave Photo Tip:
Have everyone turn their headlamps backwards, to light the cave behind you for a great picture in this pitch-black lava tube.
So, How Did Ape Cave Form?
Ape Cave was formed, nearly 2000 years ago, from a rare basaltic eruption in the Casacade Mountains. During this eruption, lava poured down the southern flank of Mount St. Helens. Yet, as this lava flowed, parts of its surface cooled and created a hardened crust. This in turn insulated the lava flowing beneath and allowed it to remain fluid as it traveled down to the Lewis River Valley.
The level of lava within the newly formed tube, rose and fell as the eruption increased and lessened, thus creating the unique features along the walls of this lava tube. It is thought that lava, from this eruption, surged through this tube for months to possibly an entire year!
Ape Cave was discovered accidentally in 1947 by a logger, however it was not explored until the early 1950s. And the first people to explore this unique lava tube were actually from a local scout troop. The Scout Troop in turn named this cave in honor of their sponsor, the St. Helens Apes, thus giving this incredible lava tube the name of Ape Cave.
Make Sure You Don’t Miss the Famous “Meatball” Formation!
- This is a block of cooled lava that must have fallen from the ceiling while lava was still flowing through the cave, and then became wedged in a narrow spot of the tube.
- It really does look like a giant Meatball floating in the air!
At the end of your 3/4 mile hike, the lava tube will narrow and end. Here, you will turn around and make the same journey back out of the cave.
How to Avoid Our Mistake
As you can see from the picture above, we did not dress very warmly for this cave and we were FREEZING for most of our hike. So don’t make the same mistake we did and please Dress Warmly for a more comfortable experience.
After a 3/4 mile hike back, you’ll return to where you entered Ape Cave. You’ll know you’re close when you literally see a light at the end of the tunnel. This is where you’ll exit (and warm up!)
Hiking the lava tube at Ape Cave is an absolutely unforgettable experience. I hope that you now have a better understanding as to what you can expect on this hike and I hope that you too get to experience this incredible lava tube soon!
Have a Great Time Hiking at Ape Cave with Your Traveling Feet!
And Don’t Forget to Bring 2-3 Light Sources:
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